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1:55 pm
July 15, 2010
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Alena
Moderator
| | New Hampshire | |
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| posts 163 |
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Ulrich asked in a different thread for Hemd (undershirt) patterns, so I've done a quick diagram of the basic Chemise pattern I use.
http://livinghistorypodcast.co…..hemise.pdf
You should be able to copy the above and paste it into a web brouser if it does not come through as a link. Let me know if anyone has trouble with the link or with veiwing the PDF etc. Now, I have not smocked up a hemd using this pattern, I've always done drawstring casing, but in a few week's time I should be able to let you know how it goes. Also, the PDF will not teach anyone how to sew, it is just the measurements and steps I take when making chemises. Ulrich, if you need more direction just let me know.
Amanda, and Brittany, you've both made smocked hemds (how do you pluralise hemd?) would you be willing to share here your basic outlines or if you got your patterns from somewhere else would you be willing to share them? I'll draw up PDFs if you've got sketches you can get to me!
Alena
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3:33 pm
July 15, 2010
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Gustav
Moderator
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how do you pluralise hemd?
das Hemd =>die Hemden
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8:37 pm
July 15, 2010
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julie
Admin
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| posts 287 |
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Alena - do you ever use the little triangles to add gussets under the arms?
Sorta like in this pattern
http://www.craftster.org/pictu….._Tunic.JPG
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10:18 pm
July 15, 2010
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Alena
Moderator
| | New Hampshire | |
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| posts 163 |
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My Colonial chemise uses that pattern, my medieval gowns also use a similar pattern (under arm gussets). If you are using thicker fabric that is less flexible you will want a lot less fabric than the pattern I put up. With less fabric in the arms, gussets are a must.
I have not yet made a smocked hemd, but the one I have in progress right now is using the pattern I PDFed because of all the fabric that can be gathered into a collar. When smocking I have read that you need at least three times as much fabric as your final collar width, so on the pattern from your link, the body would have to be a lot wider to accomodate, or the neck hole would be really deep and in that case the gusset would have to be extraordinarily large. The sheer amount of fabric that can be gathered is the reason why I am using that pattern for my first attempt. Or that could all just be a huge rationalization.
I think there is a pattern that puts triangular gussets in the top (between the front and the back across the shoulders) but I failed miserably the one time I tried to create that pattern (Stephen is the pattern creator in the family.)
Amanda and Brittney, I think we need your expertise here!
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11:12 pm
July 15, 2010
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Brittney
Member
| | Schenectady, N.Y. | |
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| posts 141 |
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I can say one thing right now, and will add more later when I have a bit more time. But an important note is than, yes, in general smocking can be a three to one ratio, however, if you are doing the honeycomb style smocking it is much, much less. I suggest doing a sample and then measuring how much material went how far smocked in the size you are working with or you will end up with far to big a piece of material in you collar or cuffs.
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