| User | Post |
|
10:36 pm August 18, 2009
| Wulfram
Member
| | Connecticut | |
|
| posts 142 |
|
|
Okay, so I'm going to go cut out my hose and I get it all laid out and ready to cut when I'm asked, “shouldn't you be cutting on the bias?'' So, now I've got some doubt in my mind and want to make sure. It is only the patterns that we're supposed to cut on the bias, or the actual cloth as well? Because if we are supposed to cut on the bias, I may have some fabric issues (still needing to cut out the sleeves too).
|
|
|
8:30 am August 19, 2009
| Gustav
Moderator
| | | |
|
| posts 265 |
|
|
You definitely need to cut it on the bias! Proper placement should save you some fabric.
|
|
|
9:18 am August 19, 2009
| julie
Admin
| | | |
|
| posts 287 |
|
|
Post edited 9:19 am - August 19, 2009 by julie
And don't forget that it is totally period to piece your fabric (sew together scraps) to get a large enough piece of fabric to cut out your pattern pieces.
So if there is just a bit of your pattern hanging off the edge somewhere, go ahead and cut and then sew on enough scrap to cut that little piece. (I hope that made sense)
|
|
|
11:05 pm September 15, 2009
| Wulfram
Member
| | Connecticut | |
|
| posts 142 |
|
|
Post edited 11:07 pm - September 15, 2009 by Wulfram
So, I'm looking at my Uber Hosen and the waistband that I cut out, and I'm thinking 'I know what to do for attaching the two at the top, but what about at the bottom?' Should I just use the sewing machine or is there a sneaky hand stitch method so that it doesn't show up so much?
|
|
|
5:57 pm September 16, 2009
| Gustav
Moderator
| | | |
|
| posts 265 |
|
|
They should only attach at the top (the waist) not at the knees.
|
|
|
10:30 pm September 16, 2009
| Wulfram
Member
| | Connecticut | |
|
| posts 142 |
|
|
Yep, got that part, I meant the bottom of the waist band. I only have maybe 2 inch thick strip of cloth going around, except where it should go longer near the front opening. I'm wondering if the bottom of the waistband is supposed to be attached. I'm not sure if that's better than how I asked before, but then of course I'm not the best at describing the jumbled thought process that happens in my mind.
|
|
|
5:26 pm September 17, 2009
| Gustav
Moderator
| | | |
|
| posts 265 |
|
|
Post edited 5:26 pm - September 17, 2009 by Gustav
AHA! No, actually, only the top of the waistband and the bits at the front (the fly) get attached and then ironed flat. The eyelets will tack it down and hold it in place.
|
|
|
6:41 pm September 28, 2009
| Wulfram
Member
| | Connecticut | |
|
| posts 142 |
|
|
So, I'm needing to make a chemisefor this weekend, what kind of fabric should I be picking up? (I know it's not wool, but I don't think that muslin would quite work either) And if you have any pointers, that would be cool too. I have a pattern, the neck is wrong, but that's an easy fix; just need to know if I should do a round or more square-ish neck.
|
|
|
7:29 pm September 28, 2009
| julie
Admin
| | | |
|
| posts 287 |
|
|
If you can find linen, that's the most authentic fabric, as cotton was imported from Egypt and hideously expensive. And get the whitest white you can find, as having white linens was a status symbol. Light weight linen is better than heavy stuff, but if it gets to the point of being too gauzy (less than 3oz weight), it won't stand up to washing and heavy wearing.
Both round and squarish necks are period, so pick whichever seems to be easier for your first attempt. You can get fancy on the second one if you want (and you will want to eventually have two or three chemises so that you can wear fresh linen every day at weekend events).
|
|
|
11:02 am August 5, 2010
| Karen
Member
| | Middletown, CT | |
|
| posts 11 |
|
|
Back to hose–
I'm putting together my costume piece-meal at the moment, and…well, I don't have the skill to make myself hose. I remember some vague discussion long ago and far away (like, the first meeting at S&A house) about there being a “modern” equivalent that can be used in a pinch. Of course, I did not write down enough specifics in my notes and I, therefore, have no idea how to progress.
Thanks, from your friendly neighborhood newb.
|
|
|
1:24 pm August 15, 2010
| Gustav
Moderator
| | | |
|
| posts 265 |
|
|
Karen, as a woman you can get away with the knitted hose available at places like http://www.jastown.com, but with a wee bit of help at the next workshop, I’ll bet you could have hose in short order.
|
|
|
7:57 pm September 5, 2010
| Karen
Member
| | Middletown, CT | |
|
| posts 11 |
|
|
What color hose are acceptable?
|
|
|
10:22 pm September 5, 2010
| Gustav
Moderator
| | | |
|
| posts 265 |
|
|
If you’re wearing Ciara v1.0, any of the colors that match that are fine, or off white, tan, etc. Pretty much most colors, though darker colors are less likely than lighter, especially as dyes fade over time and hosen get washed more than a lot of things.
|
|
|
9:19 pm September 10, 2010
| Wulfram
Member
| | Connecticut | |
|
| posts 142 |
|
|
Quick question about the gold chain necklace that the men wear. Any general guidelines? I went into Jo-Ann's today and went to look at what they would have, and was overwhelmed. Thus I'm wondering as to general shape of the links (there were some oval links that I'm not sure if are period), gold and sliver links (would we wear silver?), and I just wanted to double check if the minamum size of the links was 1/2 inch or 1 inch. I think that was all that ran through my mind.
Thanks in advance! 
|
|
|
12:26 am September 11, 2010
| Gustav
Moderator
| | | |
|
| posts 265 |
|
|
best bet is to send a picture, if possible. Otherwise, larger links are better than small. Think large rapper gold, not nice gold necklace. Minimum size should be around 3/4″ish
|
|